I never expected my visit to the Taj Mahal—one of the New Seven Wonders of the World—to begin with an eight-hour police detention in Kolkata over my satellite phone.

When Travel Takes a Detour

I was already planning to visit the Taj, but I hadn’t planned to arrive in Agra after missing my original flight. The issue? My satellite phone caught the attention of Indian authorities, and I was detained for questioning. I missed my flight and had to rebook to a different city hours away, followed by a 4.5-hour taxi ride that cost almost as much as the flight.

But sometimes, the best adventures are the ones you never see coming.

Sunrise at the Taj Mahal

Despite the ordeal, I arrived just in time to catch sunrise at the Taj Mahal. Standing there, the morning mist slowly burning off to reveal the ivory-white marble glowing in soft gold—it felt like redemption.

Some quick facts I learned from the guide:

• Built between 1632 and 1653 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj is an eternal symbol of love.
  
• Over 20,000 artisans helped construct it.
  
• The white marble changes color with the light—from soft pink at dawn to gleaming white in daylight and golden at dusk.
  

After our tour, we stopped at a local pottery studio to see traditional ceramics in action—an art form that has been passed down for generations. My host, ever hospitable, dropped me off and picked me up on his scooter, navigating the chaos of Agra traffic with ease and good humor.

A Quiet Sunrise at Agra Fort

A few days later, I returned for another peaceful sunrise—this time at Agra Fort, a red sandstone marvel and former residence of the Mughal emperors. My local guide and I practically had the place to ourselves.

Fun fact: Although Agra Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site, 80% is still used by the Indian military, so visitors can only explore a fraction—but that fraction is enormous. Intricate carvings, massive courtyards, and marble pavilions whisper of centuries past.

Holi With Locals: A Celebration to Remember

By pure luck, I happened to be in Agra during Holi, the Hindu festival of colors. My homestay host offered to take me and a few other travelers for a walk through his neighborhood. He even sold me disposable white clothes—a wise idea, considering what came next.

We didn’t even make it 10 feet before neighbors and strangers alike were smearing vibrant chalk colors on our cheeks, shouting “Happy Holi!” with the purest joy. Some whizzed by on scooters, others popped out of doorways with powdered dye and warm grins.

We did two full laps of the neighborhood, stopping back at the guesthouse for mid-morning cocktails—because Holi isn’t just a celebration of color, it’s also a party.

My white phone case is still stained pink months later. I think I’ll leave it that way.

Taj Nature Walk: Monkeys, Peacocks, and a Peaceful Morning

One quiet Saturday morning, I strolled the Taj Nature Trail, a lesser-known gem with occasional views of the Taj Mahal framed by brush and trees. I shared the path mostly with locals, plus a few monkeys chasing peacocks through the undergrowth. A surreal and serene counterpoint to the buzzing Holi crowds.

Final Thoughts

Travel has a funny way of weaving chaos and magic together. From an unexpected brush with the law to pink-stained memories and peaceful sunrises, Agra left an indelible mark on my heart (and my phone case).

Planning Your Visit to Agra?

• Arrive at the Taj Mahal at sunrise for the least crowds and most magical light.
  
• Don’t skip Agra Fort, even if it’s often overshadowed by its famous neighbor.
  
• Consider staying with a locally-owned homestay for authentic hospitality.
  
• If you’re there during Holi, wear white, go with the flow, and prepare for joyful chaos.
  
• For a quiet nature moment, walk the Taj Nature Trail early in the morning.
  

For more on Holi traditions, check out this guide from Britannica and for more on Mughal history, explore Taj Mahal on UNESCO.

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Don’t miss the whole story of my arrest in India in the last blog: I Got Detained in India for 8 Hours Over My Satellite Phone – What Travelers Need to Know.