After a whirlwind few days at a friend’s wedding in Kolkata, I couldn’t resist the chance to take a Sundarbans Mangrove Forest boat safari, exploring one of India’s most mysterious natural wonders and the elusive home of the Bengal tiger.

A Journey to the Edge of the World

The adventure began with a long, multi-leg journey from Kolkata: a bus ride through dusty roads and rice paddies, a boat across winding creeks, a tuk-tuk bumping down narrow village paths, and then yet another boat. Finally, we arrived at a remote island surrounded by dense mangroves and quiet waterways, where our rural eco-lodge awaited.

There was a deep peace here—no horns, no city lights—just birdsong, warm wind, and the gentle slosh of water. We were greeted with sweet chai and an aromatic homemade lunch, though I quickly learned that my spice tolerance couldn’t quite match the fiery flavors of Bengal cuisine. I still tasted everything—dal, vegetables, and fish curries—but often settled for extra rice and roti to soothe the heat.

Life in the Sundarbans

After a much-needed nap (I’d only slept 3 hours after work the night before), we set out on a walk around the island. A local guide explained how the nearby villages rely on fishing, farming, and honey gathering from deep within the forest. It was humbling to hear how people here live in daily coexistence—and sometimes conflict—with tigers and tidal floods.

Later that evening, we floated silently in paddle boats through the mangroves, spotting egrets and kingfishers perched on twisted roots. As dusk fell, we returned to the lodge for a cultural performance: women from the village danced and sang in traditional dress, their movements telling stories passed down through generations.

But the true magic came after nightfall.

Bioluminescence Under the Stars

We returned to the water in narrow canoes, our paddles slicing silently through the dark. Then we saw it—sparkling pinpricks of light shimmering beneath the surface. Bioluminescent plankton, twinkling like stardust in the wake of our boat. Above us, the sky blazed with constellations. Below, the water glowed. It was a moment of pure wonder.

The Tiger Safari

At sunrise the next morning, we boarded our safari boat and set off deeper into the Sundarbans. Breakfast was served on deck—sweet bread and milky chai, my go-to again as most of the other options were spicier than I could handle.

We cruised for hours, searching for signs of the Bengal tiger, the most famous (and shyest) resident of these mangroves. Though we didn’t spot one, we did see fresh paw prints on muddy riverbanks, suggesting we had just missed a rare sighting.

Between wildlife-viewing stops, we sipped more chai and watched mudskipper fish (yes, fish that literally climb trees!) near the shore. We also spotted monkeys, deer, and dozens of birds, from eagles to vibrantly colored kingfishers.

By midday, the humid heat set in, and I curled up in one of the small bunk cabins below deck for a catnap while the boat gently rocked me to sleep.

A Return to Reality

Eventually, we docked and began the long trip back to Kolkata, retracing our steps by boat, tuk-tuk, and van. I arrived back in the city after dark—muddy, a little sunburnt, and grateful for the chance to experience this wild, watery world.

Travel Tips for Visiting the Sundarbans Mangrove Forest

• Best time to visit: October to March for cooler temperatures and better wildlife viewing.
  
• Getting there: Tours typically include pickup from Kolkata. Expect multiple transfers (bus, boat, tuk-tuk) to reach your lodge.
  
• Accommodations: Choose an eco-lodge that supports local communities and offers guided wildlife safaris.
  
• Food: Delicious Bengali home-cooked meals are included, but if you’re sensitive to spice, let your hosts know in advance and bring your own snacks
  
• Wildlife to expect: Bengal tigers (rare!), monkeys, deer, crocodiles, mudskippers, and over 250 bird species.
  
• Bring: Sunscreen, insect repellent, binoculars, and a light scarf or bandana for sun protection.
  

For more background on the region, check out UNESCO’s page on the Sundarbans.

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Don’t miss the first part of this adventure in India: My Kolkata Adventure: Spicy Breakfasts, SIM Card Struggles & a Bengali Wedding.